Tag: Kingsland Road

  • Discovering the long lost cinemas of Hackney

    Discovering the long lost cinemas of Hackney

    The Rio Cinema in 1985
    The Rio Cinema in 1985

    More films are probably watched in the current era than at any other time in movie history – the majority on TV screens, computers, tablets and even mobile phones.

    But to experience the splendour of cinema on the big screen there are only two places in Hackney: the Rio on Kingsland High Street and Hackney Picturehouse on Mare Street.

    This wasn’t always the case. Over 60 cinemas have existed at one time or another within Hackney, and although all 60 were never in operation at the same time, there were around 30 cinemas operating in the golden years between 1920 and 1950. It is difficult to imagine stepping out onto Kingsland Road or Mare Street on a Saturday night and having 30 cinemas from which to choose!

    Many of the Hackney cinemas opened during a flurry of entrepreneurial activity just before the First World War. There were extraordinary profits to be made; it was like a gold rush and numerous speculators and opportunists were all trying to get in on the cinema act. Film historian Luke McKernan called it “a phase of greedy speculation in cinema building”, with 52 cinemas established in Hackney in seven years, between 1907 and 1914.

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    Above: Hackney Picture Palace, around 1940. The cinema first opened in 1914. Below: the site of the former cinema on Mare Street today

    hackney-picture-palace-site-of_2016

     

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    Above: Hackney Pavilion on Mare Street circa 1960. The cinema opened in 1914. Below: The site of the former cinema. which is now a bank, today

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    Some were converted shops, chapels, churches and skating rinks, whilst others were struggling theatres and music halls eager to boost audiences cash in on the phenomenon of moving pictures by installing screens and projectors. Still more were new, purpose-built cinemas. Although some closed down after a few years (their owners seemingly took the money and run), there was another flurry of cinema activity in the 1930s, when six luxurious ‘super’ cinemas were opened, with elegant art deco architecture and lavish interiors.

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    The Odeon on 211 Hackney Road, which later became a Mecca Bingo. Below: the same site, which is set to become flats, in 2016

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    regal-abc-mare-st-_1970-620
    Above: The ABC (formerly Regal) on Mare Street in 1970. Below: site of the former cinema today

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    These were the Regent (later renamed the Odeon) in Stamford Hill, the Regal (later the ABC) on Mare Street, the Savoy on Stoke Newington Road (later also an ABC), the Odeon on Hackney Road, the Ritz (again renamed the ABC) in Stamford Hill and finally the Odeon Dalston, along Kingsland Road, close to Dalston Junction. With gigantic interiors and massive screens, Hackney cinemagoers could wallow in the dark in warmth and comfort as the films unspooled.

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    Above: The Regent in Stamford Hill, which opened in 1929. Below: Sainsbury’s, which occupies the same site today

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    It is generally thought that the decline in cinema attendance in the 1950s was the result of the boom in television (the birth in fact of electronic home entertainment), but this is only part of the story.

    Bombing during the Second World War had destroyed over a million buildings in London, and left 1.2 million Londoners homeless. As families moved to new towns such as Stevenage, Harlow, Hatfield and Basildon, communities broke up and traditional work and leisure patterns eroded. Cinema-going and many other pursuits were abandoned or displaced. By 1970 there were just nine cinemas in Hackney and by 1980 only three remained. When I left the Rio in 1989, it was down to one: the Rio was the only cinema still operating in the borough. But again leisure patterns have changed, and that number has now doubled.

    Today there are campaigns and plans to restore both the Clapton Cinematograph Theatre (the Kenning Hall cinema) and the Castle in Brooksbys Walk. If successful, an additional two cinema venues in the borough will mean that the opportunities for Hackney residents to see films on the big screen will have doubled yet again!

    The accompanying pictures show some of Hackney’s glorious cinemas; how they once looked, and how the sites look now. If you have any memories of cinemas and cinema-going in Hackney, leave a message in the comments below.

    This article is based on a talk given to the Friends of Hackney Archives on 7 September 2016.

    Photo credits: Hackney Archives, Cinema Theatres Association, Cinema Treasures

    For further information about the Clapton Cinematograph Theatre campaign, visit saveourcinema.org/ and for the Castle Cinema see kickstarter.com/projects/pillowcinema/revive-the-castle-cinema

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    ABC cinema (formerly Savoy) on Stoke Newington Road in 1963. Below: Efes snooker club, which operates on the same site today

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    Above: Coliseum cinema at 31-33 Stoke Newington Road in 1970. Below: the same site 15 years on in 1985

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    Odeon Dalston on Stamford Road in 1948. Below: the site today

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    Above: The 1928 film Why Sailors Go Wrong plays at Stamford Hill Cinema. Below: Asda, on the site of the cinema today

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  • Jidori, Dalston, restaurant review – View-a skewer

    Jidori, Dalston, restaurant review – View-a skewer

    The bar at Jidori. Photograph: Mary Gaudin, Design: Giles Reid Architects
    The bar at Jidori. Photograph: Mary Gaudin, Design: Giles Reid Architects

    Jidori had been piquing my interest ever since it first opened. Walking by on Kingsland Road, I couldn’t discern the cuisine, but the warm, soft lighting beckoned, and through the glass pane I could see the tables were full, with pairs of casual diners chatting at the wooden bar, the whole dining space framed by blue-grey walls lined with crockery and plants. The cuisine is contemporary Japanese, and when I finally walked in for dinner, TLC’s ‘No Scrubs’ started playing whilst I was served a Yuzu lemon slushy margarita. All my pleasure centres lit up at once, as if an algorithm somewhere was running to ensure maximum appeal to a broad, urban 30-something demographic.

    In fact, the responsible parties are Brett Redman and Natalie Lee-Joe, restauranteurs and co-founders. Redman has opened several popular places in London, of which I’ve only been to the Pavilion café in Victoria Park, a very different type of venue but again, one that knows its market very well. Whereas the Pavilion serves free-range breakfasts and craft beer, the vision for Jidori is yakitori – a casual type of Japanese cuisine centred on chicken skewers, cooked on a charcoal grill and washed down with copious amounts of booze. Although there are nice vegetarian highlights, I wouldn’t recommend eating at Jidori if chicken isn’t your thing.

    The tsukune, with cured egg yolk. Photograph: Aaron Tilley
    The tsukune, with cured egg yolk. Photograph: Aaron Tilley

    The menu is quite small and we had most of it, starting with the katsu curry Scotch egg, which, in the final reckoning, was a well-executed Scotch egg, but a Scotch egg nonetheless, so not exactly a rarity in Hackney. I then had a simple bowl of chicken broth. Broth well done is lovely and understated. This had depth and flavour and was as clear as glass, indicating the stock was simmered slowly and never came to the boil. Next, the omakase, a tasting platter for two, which for £18 each allowed us sample most of the skewer menu. Chicken thigh and spring onion; aubergine and miso butter; chicken hearts and bacon; king oyster mushroom; and tsukune: minced chicken on skewer (think the consistency of kofte), dipped in raw egg yolk. The mushroom, hearts, and tsukune stood above the rest. The set menu included rice and pickles. It was supposed to also include an onsen egg, but this never materialised. We finished off with the ginger ice cream with miso caramel, which is a serious dessert and unmissable.

    Jidori is certainly not the only, or the most authentic, yakitori in London – perennial favourite Jin Kichi in Hampstead comes to mind – but it is inviting and cheerful, with attentive service. It is also good value – even with drinks you can eat there for less than £20 a head. With this winning formula, there may well be more restaurants to come from Redman and Lee-Joe.

    Jidori
    89 Kingsland High St, London E8 2PB
    jidori.co.uk

  • An Unreliable Guide to London – book review

    An Unreliable Guide to London – book review

    "Top-notch city writing" - An Unreliable Guide to London. Photograph: Timothy Cooke
    “Top-notch city writing” – An Unreliable Guide to London. Photograph: Influx Press

    An Unreliable Guide to London looks and sounds like a bit of a gimmick. The title positions it as a humorous alternative to the city’s latest Lonely Planet publication, while the front cover – laden with hackneyed London graphics and brandished with the tagline “bad advice – limited scope – no practical use” – is the type you might expect to find attached to an unwanted stocking filler. The content, however, is of an altogether different nature.

    The idea for the collection, which contains more than a few exceptional stories set in some of the capital’s lesser-known locations, arose during a conversation over meatball subs at a Tottenham retail park. Editors Kit Caless and Gary Budden of Influx Press sat together wondering why publishers weren’t printing books about the parts of London they knew and interacted with on a daily basis. “What novels had we read set in Hanwell, Cricklewood or Barking?” they asked.

    Inspired, they brought together 24 diverse contributors from across the city, before launching a successful Kickstarter campaign to give new literature to a London “that exists on the periphery of the imagination”.

    An Unreliable Guide… is divided into four sections – West, North, South and East (in order) – and draws on areas as far apart as Wormwood Scrubs and Exmouth Market, and then further again. Aki Schilz gets the collection off to a great start with “Beating the Bounds”, but it’s Eley Williams’s bizarre and brilliant “In Pursuit of the Swan at Brentford Ait” that really sets the work alight.

    Williams delves into the rich, ambiguous world of cryptid research, painting a mythological history of an over-grown swan believed to have long terrorised local riverbanks, with a plumage reported to be “dim smoky purple or a vivid electric pink”. She describes Brentford FC football chants that pay credence to the beast and details umpteen dangerous encounters stretching back centuries. It’s a stunningly strange tale.

    Budden’s own “Staples Corner (and how we can know it)” – about a trip on the 266 to Currys and PC World, dropped off amid a “web of underpasses and roundabouts, of concrete walkways and steps to nowhere… trapped in the fevered dying dream of a brutalist architect” – is another of West’s highlights, while Chloe Aridjis kicks off the North section with an evocative exploration of night, shadows and optical illusions in N1.

    Though M John Harrison’s “Babies From Sand: A Guide to Oliver’s Island, Barnes & the St Margarets’ Day of the Dead” is one of the weirdest, most-inspired pieces of short literature I’ve come across in a while, it’s the assemblage from East that is, for me, of most interest (primarily because I know the territory so well).

    The poet Tim Wells lyrically laments the loss of wanker-free record stores in Hackney, where back in the day he’d purchase reggae, drink beer and chat with mates, before moving on to get his fill of pie, mash, liquor and slippery eels at Cooke’s on Kingsland Road. Nikesh Shukla makes fine work of Tayyabs, the famous Whitechapel curry house, while Irenosen Okojie brings a dizzying, Borges-like tale of time travelling monks to Barking.

    As if that’s not enough, Marshman Gareth E Rees delivers a typically fun and enlightening account of a walk around Leyton Mills Retail Park – the car park, specifically – and co-editor Caless finishes things off with a probing series of politically-loaded vignettes dedicated to the forces tugging away at Exmouth Market; there’s spiced lamb, adulterous office sex and a bronze bust of Vladimir Lenin.

    Despite appearances, An Unreliable Guide to London is a formidable anthology of top-notch city writing.

  • BúnBúnBún: nosh from ’Nam

    Bunbunbun
    New to Kingsland: Bunbunbun

    BúnBúnBún is a new Vietnamese café that has bravely opened on Kingsland Road just two doors up from neighbourhood favourite and hallowed legend Sông Quê.

    Bún’s USP, differentiating it from the other Kingsland road cafés, is that it purports to serve authentic fare from Hanoi, particularly bún chå, a pork and noodle dish served in a rich meat broth that I saw everywhere in the city when I visited, and was looking forward to enjoying again.

    We thus sat down expecting to find a menu full of hard-to-find classics, but the menu was full of mostly familiar pan-Asian items: green papaya salad, satay, udon noodles, as well as a perplexing “Vietnamese burger” served on a brioche bun (a nod, I suppose, to that law passed by the Tories stating every burger henceforth must only be served well done, and on brioche).

    The bún chå itself was accorded a separate instruction manual encased in a plastic stand on each table, with a mathematical formula featuring different types of meats and accompaniments. Between this, and the fact that it was filed under “noodle salad” on the menu (it’s a broth dish), I got confused, presumed that Bún was simply serving a vermicelli salad, and opted for the monkfish instead.

    Unfortunately our friendly server was run off his feet and also was not fluent enough in English to answer our questions, so I also ordered some sweet potato chips from the menu, supposing they were was possibly a Hanoian speciality. Alas, I found that they were indeed just chips.

    Our meal, supplemented by summer rolls and salt and chilli squid, definitely gave Sông Quê a run for its money: all of it was well prepared, fresh and perfectly executed, and I enjoyed the classics done well. The salt and chilli squid was actually far superior to most of the competitors’, and the monkfish was decently priced and generously portioned with lots of fresh herbs.

    So, despite being a little disappointed that I managed to miss the signature dish (I blame both myself and how the information was presented), Bún is all right in my books, although I’d like to see the owners develop a more Hanoian feel as they find their feet.

    BúnBúnBún
    134b Kingsland Road
    Hackney
    E2 8DY
    @bunldn