Author: East End Review

  • The Frog – restaurant review

    The Frog – restaurant review

    The Frog restaurant
    Through the front door: inside the Frog. Photograph: Tim Green

    Adam Handling has come a long way since reaching the finals of Masterchef: The Professionals in 2013.

    The young Scot took up residence at St. Ermin’s Hotel in Westminster, earning decent reviews for his modern, technical dishes as head chef of Caxton Grill.

    Now 2015’s Scottish Chef of the Year is taking his first leap into the world of entrepreneurship – hence the name of his new Spitalfields eatery, The Frog.

    Arriving at the restaurant in Ely’s Yard, around the corner from the Market, you’re struck by the amount of competition surrounding it. Food stalls, popular with locals and tourists, line the square, and signs for next door’s Sunday Upmarket remind you this is an area spoilt for culinary choice.

    How do you stand out in such a colourful landscape? Handling’s answer is to blend in with the crowd.

    The Frog’s décor is typically Shoreditchian. The tables and chairs are mismatched in a deliberately laissez-faire manner, messages are scrawled on the white walls, which are otherwise filled with empty photo frames (I’m told they’re just placeholders until a showcase of work by local artists is ready).

    The kitchen is open too – so open, in fact, that you can see the chefs’ changing room at the back. It’s so perfectly hip that it feels a bit forced, a bit pretend.

    The dishes are described with simplicity – a list of ingredients rather than a verbose portrait – and I admire that.

    The à la carte has plenty to offer, but the five-course tasting menu, reasonable for its ilk at 45 quid a head, is the most popular choice in the room.

    And if you’re still in any doubt that the place is aimed at local hipsters, the inclusion of a £25 beer pairing option should convince you.

    The Frog puts far more emphasis on its bountiful selection of craft beer than its wine, and that’s fine by me. But ultimately, it’s the quality of the food by which a restaurant lives or dies, and the tasting menu lets you try much of it. And all ingredients, I’m told, are locally sourced.

    There are snacks: a lovely, fatty, pork croquette with lovage; a sweet beetroot fest that’s a little too sugary for my taste; and a delightful cracker dotted with chunks of salt cod and little gems of citrus and pickled cucumber.

    Then warm slices of sourdough with chicken butter, which made the bread taste like it’d been dipped in a meaty broth. Very nice.

    The menu’s substance was made up of three dishes: two fish, one meat. These were worth the £45 alone, though they weren’t without fault.

    The mackerel, cooked to perfection and accompanied by apple, avocado cream and titbits of fresh lime, was overly sweet. The roast hake, again flaky and divine, was ably supported by the smoothest mash I’ve ever had, and that moreish aniseed flavour of tarragon.

    But the lamb, described on the menu as ‘Lamb, artichoke, wild garlic’, was so wildly garlicky as to make it unenjoyable.

    The only respite came when you dipped into the puddle of cream underneath everything, which made me wonder if drizzling the sauce on top of the meat would have helped the balance of flavours.

    The supplementary cheese course at just £4 was a treat. A doughnut filled with gooey fondue, and hints of truffle running through it.

    Even the existence of a palate cleanser on such a menu is a pleasant surprise; for it to feel like a bona fide dessert was even better. The crunchy almonds with milk ice cream and dill would make for a delightful finale, but the best was yet to come.

    Burnt honey doesn’t sound too appealing on paper, but sweetened with a malty pomade and toffee, the bitter shards of honeycomb were a winner.

    If you’re worried about going home hungry – some tasting menus can be stingy with their portions – don’t be. I had to undo the button on my trousers halfway through.

    Happy that I’d had plenty of value for my money, I took up the option to ‘Buy the chefs a beer’ for £4 each. Luckily the team is still quite small – I counted – but they definitely deserved a drink.

    The menu might be priced to draw in customers – the place is only a few weeks old, after all – so go and try it soon. Such was the quality of the food, I don’t quite know how they’re making a profit. But I hope they do, because I’ll certainly be returning.

    With plans for more restaurant openings in the coming months, this is just the start for Brand Handling. And for a first leap into the unknown, The Frog has landed well – not perfect tens, but certainly with a brilliant flourish.

    The Frog
    Ely’s Yard
    Old Truman Brewery
    2 Hanbury Street
    London
    E1 6QR

  • Pick of the bricks: Wilton’s Music Hall and Alphabeta win RIBA awards

    Wilton’s Music Hall
    Wilton’s Music Hall. Photograph: Helene Binet

    East London architecture down the ages is rich and varied, from Hawksmoor’s churches to the high modernist Balfron Tower.

    But there are supreme examples of contemporary architecture in East London too, which the Royal Institute for British Architects (RIBA) acknowledged when announcing the nominees and winners of its annual awards.

    Wilton’s Music Hall

    Once a rowdy hub of Victorian popular entertainment, Wilton’s Music Hall has been named London Building of the Year, after a restoration project that saw the theatre strengthened, sound-proofed, heated and ventilated without compromising its unique character.

    “We just want to stop the clock so that it’s safe and it’s structurally secure,” Oona Patterson, the venue’s marketing director, told the East End Review in 2014, before much of the work had started.

    Tim Ronalds Architects followed a principle of “doing only what is essential”, putting an “enormous amount of care into apparently doing nothing’.

    In Victorian times, tightrope walkers, the first British can-can show, and performances by music hall greats graced Wilton’s stage.

    Everything possible from that era was preserved, from disused roofs, Georgian brickwork, fragments of plaster and ceramic electrical fittings, to an abandoned birds’ nest.

    As the restoration unfolded so traces of previous occupation and abandonment emerged.

    These found qualities of the building have also been preserved, adding to a subtle and engaging visual narrative.

    Alphabeta Building
    Alphabeta Building. Photograph: Hufton and Crow

    Alphabeta

    This large-scale office space on Finsbury Square incorporates parts of the old Triton Court building.

    The building, which has bagged a London RIBA award, has been transformed into a contemporary office space for workers in the tech and finance industries.

    Its original tower and cupola have been restored but rooftop office space and open terraces now offer panoramic views.

    Architects Studio RHE removed old extensions and alterations, stripping back the listed building to reveal riveted-steel columns and brickwork.

    But the most impressive detail is its glazed atrium, the sides of which are clad in contrasting materials. Projecting meeting rooms cantilever out into the space, and a huge cycle ramp behind a glazed screen takes cyclists straight down from street-level to a large cycle store in the basement.

    What one considers an office can range from a kitchen table to a rented shoebox to something altogether more grandiose –Alphabeta firmly belongs in the latter camp.

  • London Fog – The Biography: how air pollution changed the nature of city life

    London Fog – The Biography: how air pollution changed the nature of city life

    Air pollution
    Exposure: East London has historic links to air pollution. Photograph: David Holt

    Air pollution at 66 Tower Hamlets primary schools breached EU limits for nitrogen dioxide in 2010, a report published earlier this year revealed.

    Setting out figures for each London borough, it found that deprived parts of the city, such as Tower Hamlets and Hackney, suffer greater exposure to air pollution than richer neighbouring boroughs.

    Looking back to Victorian times, with East London the centre of heavy industry and the greatest concentration of slums, one might say it was forever thus. But back then, and until the early 1960s, air pollution in the form of fog was a more visible and pervading presence in the lives of Londoners.

    Dr Christine Corton of Wolfson College, Cambridge, is the author of London Fog –The Biography.

    “The wind direction in London tends to be from west to east, so the East End had a lot of industry puffing out smoke and houses that used open fires. But it was also getting the smoke from the West End because of the wind direction,” she says.

    Corton tells me how London’s fogs changed the very nature of city life, creating worlds of anonymity and providing cover for crime.

    “The East End was very much seen as the dark continent,” Corton says.

    “It was much easier to pick a pocket back then. There’s stories of ladders being put up the side of buildings, and burglars making their way up, stealing whatever is inside and escaping without being seen.”

    Fictional depictions of events such as the Jack the Ripper murders always seem to be shrouded in fog, even though none of the murders took place on a foggy night.

    “Film productions of Sherlock Holmes generally open with a fog,” Corton says. “It’s an immediate signifier of a murky crime-ridden scene, but in fact there wasn’t that much urban fog in Conan Doyle’s books.”

    The fog was a versatile metaphor for writers, appearing in the works of T.S. Eliot, Oscar Wilde and Charles Dickens as well as in paintings by Whistler and Monet.

    “Dickens uses it in Bleak House for the obfuscation of the law and it pervades the whole of the first chapter where everyone is in a fog. And in Our Mutual Friend, he uses it to show people’s character, so the villain Fledgley comes out into fog and the fog sucks him in – it’s like he’s part of that corruption that’s created by society.”

    The fog’s various nicknames – ‘London Particular’ or ‘pea-souper’ – prove that it captured the general public’s imagination too.

    Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds and other industrial cities also had smoke problems, but only in London did residents actually feel quite proud of the fog. A smoky street was a sign that industry was booming and that people could afford coal on their fire – which through most of 19th century was most people’s only source of heat and light.

    “Whenever I talk to people who remember the 1950s fog there’s also nostalgia that somehow the London Fog created a warm reassuring environment,” Corton says.

    “The smell, although sulphurous, felt somehow nutritious, which is why fog is often talked about in food terms.

    “And there are also stories of lovers who couldn’t see each other in their own homes meeting in the fog on a bench holding hands or kissing. So it could actually create this almost domestic space for them.”

    This ambivalence towards the fog contributed to its staying power. Corton says that, starting from the 1820s, unsuccessful attempts were made every decade to clean up London’s air.

    “Although people detested the fog and knew it killed them they thought it represented something very special about London. And it was partly because of that the legislation passed was always weakened.”

    The smog of 1952 was the real catalyst for change. Labelled the Big Smoke, this severe air-pollution event lasted five days and was the cause of 12,000 premature deaths, according to a recent study.

    “People had just fought a World War and I think they said we didn’t fight a World War in order to kill ourselves with the air we breathe,” Corton says.

    The fog began to dissipate after the 1956 Clean Air Act was passed, introduced as a private members’ bill by the Enoch Powell-supporting Conservative MP, Gerald Nabarro.

    It was strengthened in 1968 by another Act of Parliament, this time sponsored by Robert Maxwell.

    But whilst the fog might be a very distant memory to some, air pollution in East London today is a present – though less visible – threat to public health.

    “They reckon now that 9,000 people die every year from London air pollution,” says Corton.

    “For 150 years at least, people knew the air they were breathing was bad for them. I would take that and say let’s look at the automobile, which we now are so in love with that we can’t envisage using all the time. In a way it’s a parallel to our love of the coal fire.

    “It hasn’t entered the artistic imagination as the yellowy green smog of yesteryear, but it’s a situation that fundamentally hasn’t changed. Only today it’s just a different type of air pollution.”

    London Fog – The Biography is published by Harvard University Press. ISBN: 9780674088351. RRP: £22.95

  • London Life – book review: a wonderful photographic celebration of the city

    London Life – book review: a wonderful photographic celebration of the city

    Frozen canal_Colin O'Brien
    Touch of frost: Regent’s Canal freezes over. Photograph: Colin O’Brien

    Photographer Colin O’Brien’s book London Life may appear at first glance a series of beautiful yet somewhat random photographs, but is in fact a narrative of London and his own life.

    The book begins in Little Italy, Clerkenwell, where O’Brien grew up. The early photographs are box camera negatives that O’Brien came upon by chance when clearing out his house. Looking at a photograph of two friends leaning against a car in Hatton Gardens in 1948, O’Brien says: “I love the way they’re posing. They were Italian, very confident and very cheeky.”

    O’Brien’s early photographs show an interesting contrast of tenderness and violence. On one page, a girl is being taken to a birthday party in her new dress on Clerkenwell Road; on another, we see a car accident on the junction of the very same road.

    There is a sense of loss in O’Brien’s photographs. He says: “I took lots of pictures of ‘last things’: the last tram, the last trolley bus, the last day of Woolworths, the last day of smoking in parks.”

    Horse and cart in Hackney
    Horse and cart in Hackney

    Looking at pictures of Westminster Bridge and Trafalgar Square in 1954, O’Brien notices that even the light has changed. The air back then was dirty: “I remember going to the cinema and getting our money back because we couldn’t see the screen.”

    It is not just the faces that are changing, but also the very nature of photography in the city. In the first half of the book, the photographs seem lonelier, the city more vast. In the 70s, however, the photographs are more populated with people and cars.

    Hackney-Downs demolished flats _Colin O'Brien 620
    Flattened: High-rise flats are demolished at Hackney Downs. Photograph: Colin O’Brien

    Every photograph has its own personal story. O’Brien turns to a photograph of Jim’s Café, on Chatsworth Road, taken in 2008. The proprietor is standing in the doorway.

    “I took his picture, went back a month later with the pictures and his wife started crying and said he died last week. I said do you want the pictures and she said if she wanted them, she’d get in touch. She never got back.”

    London Life is a wonderful celebration of the city, of people together and of tragedy. “I just take what’s in front of me,” O’Brien says, and it is this openness to experience that has taken O’Brien from the Victorian dwellings of his youth, and made him the London photographer that we know today.

    London Life is published by Spitalfields Life. RRP: £25.00. ISBN: 9780957656956.

  • Influx documentary paints poignant portrait of Italians in London

    Influx documentary paints poignant portrait of Italians in London

    Influx
    Luca Vullo, director of Italian immigration documentary, Influx

    At a time when the subject of immigration is at the forefront of the national debate, this new documentary by East London-based director Luca Vullo couldn’t be more vital as an exposé of the individual characters behind the statistics. Moreover, more than an hour spent listening to such a beautiful language as Italian is rarely time wasted.

    Rather than forcing an opinion on the viewer and delving into the ugliness of politics, Influx lets the people do the talking. From pensioners, young people, business executives to those on the street, a broad range of talking heads offer their personal perspectives.

    They relate both the boons and foibles of the Italian people – one of London’s largest demographics – and deliver a wonderfully even-handed end product.

    Many Mediterranean countries are in the stranglehold of economic turmoil and stratospheric youth unemployment. As more and more people leave Italy in search of a better life, Vullo’s documentary focuses chiefly on two poignant issues – the existential anxiety of seeing one’s country fail its young people and lose its best and brightest in an increasingly globalised world; and the tribulations of those who venture from their homeland to a strange new city.

    We are privy to the emotional challenges faced by Italians of all ages and backgrounds, whether it be coping with excessive bureaucracy, surviving the feelings of isolation and anxiety, or learning the mores of a more germanic, punctilious nation than theirs.

    Nearly all interviewees miss their mother country, and deplore the conditions which have lead to their exodus. But as one says, if Italy is the mother country then Britain is the adoptive mother, and the dynamism, tolerance and opportunities to be found in the UK are roundly praised.

    The suggestion is that where Italy’s “Byzantine” bureaucracy and stagnant economy fail the ambitious and the inspired, London succeeds in fostering their talents. And as Italian entrepreneurs, chefs, artists, politicians and charity workers participate in our society, clearly it is only their nation’s loss.

    Most importantly, Vullo’s documentary relates the sense of identity, hopes and fears, and aspirations of people from one of the world’s ancient and rich cultures in the modern world, and displays superbly our shared experience in the global city of London.

    influxlondon.com

  • Alleycats, review: bike courier thriller fails to ignite East End Film Festival

    Alleycats, review: bike courier thriller fails to ignite East End Film Festival

    The cast of Alleycats
    The cast of Alleycats. Photograph: Christina Solomons

    The East End Film Festival got off to a start last month, with the world premiere of Ian Bonhote’s debut feature, Alleycats.

    It begins with trendy bike courier Chris speeding through London, weaving between traffic and capturing the city on a shaky GoPro camera strapped to his helmet.

    When he stumbles upon an ultra-corrupt politician (John Hannah) leaning over the dead body of a young woman, he becomes embroiled in a blackmail plot that unfolds on two wheels in the streets and back alleys of the capital.

    As things take a turn for the worst, Chris’s sister Danni gets behind the handlebars and steers the film on towards catastrophe.

    With a hint of the Dogme 95 spirit about it, plus a decent soundtrack, there’s some promise early on, but a flimsy narrative, reams of clunky dialogue and a precocious but uninteresting approach to style render it ultimately flat.

    Hannah brings something of a demonic-Malcolm-Tucker feel to his role and copes well with what little the script offers, but just about every other member of the cast gets it wrong, in this failed fusion of Guy Ritchie, Skins and the 90s cartoon series Biker Mice From Mars.

    alleycatsfilm.com

  • DishNextDoor – review: feed thy neighbour with delivery service

    DishNextDoor – review: feed thy neighbour with delivery service

    Dish Next Door chef
    Home cooked: anyone can try their hand at becoming a mini takeaway service

    Online food retail is one of the fastest growing industries worldwide. Giants like Ocado, recipe box companies, UK farms delivering meat directly to consumers.

    All these businesses have identified consumers’ desire, on the one hand, for flexibility and convenience, and on the other, for an alternative to the traditional supply chain.

    They combine flexibility and convenience with tech savviness: the Uberification of food, if you will.

    DishNextDoor is a web-based start-up, covering some but not all of Hackney’s postcodes, that connects neighbours’ kitchens, so that amateur chefs, matriarchs, bakers and anyone else can try their hand at becoming a mini takeaway service for their community.

    It provides home cooks with an ordering and payment platform (their website), free hygiene training, certification and insurance, as well as food packaging and a courier service.

    The company presumably takes a commission to cover operational costs.

    Cooking up a storm: a Dish Next Door chef
    Well prepared: a Dish Next Door chef. Online reviews were universally positive

    Each chef has a bio and picture, and the website is a showcase of Hackney’s multiculturalism.

    Although the gender remained predominately female, there were many older people, and different nationalities and faiths, so felt like an avenue for interaction with people one might not naturally get to talk to on the street or in the shop.

    User reviews were universally positive, making me suspect that community, not food, was the primary driver of sales. I can’t imagine that selling four portions of lasagne is a great earner, either.

    The service has its kinks. I was enthusiastic about both ordering and cooking food for this article, before realising there was no delivery to my postcode in Hackney Wick.

    Ordering from a friend’s house in Clapton, we found Clapton was not well covered either. Most dishes had sold out by 4pm.

    Meal
    Chicken tonight: chefs include hand-written notes in their deliveries

    With three of us dining, and only five available cooks, we had few options, and not enough food from one cook to cover us all, so also three deliveries.

    Our staggered meal consisted of a lamb kebab split three ways, a vegan paella and a haddock cream pasta.

    The food was no better or worse than an average, home cooked, weekday meal.

    I’ve seen a few similar services for Hackney and London, so it seems the market has yet to consolidate. But when it does, there should be enough cooks and variety that these issues will work themselves out.

    User reviews might be more reliable, meaning one might be able to source excellent food. I hope DishNextDoor or a similar venture thrives locally – it may be a modern iteration, but at its core this is all about peeking into the houses we pass every day, and breaking bread with our neighbours.

    dishnextdoor.co.uk

    Update, 7 July, 18.50: This article was first published in print on 1 July. We have since been informed that DishNextDoor is to close down and stop all trading.

  • Hungry Donkey review: Greek street food a welcome addition to East End

    Hungry Donkey review: Greek street food a welcome addition to East End

    Greek Salad
    Greek Salad at Hungry Donkey

    In an area of London full of top-notch Turkish Cypriot restaurants and kebabs, the Greek restaurant is a rarity. Indeed I remember committing the faux pas of ordering tzatziki at a Turkish eatery in Newington Green and the cold, terse response I received. Yet I like tzatziki as well as cacik, so when Hungry Donkey opened just off Petticoat Lane by Liverpool Street, I decided to investigate.

    An airy, modern restaurant, Hungry Donkey claims to serve ‘Greek street food’. The words ‘street food’ have been bandied about so much as to have utterly lost any meaning, but in this case, it represents a pared down menu, with a range of lights, modern starters, souvlaki wraps and towering sharing plates of meat accompanied by salad.

    Immediately notable about Hungry Donkey is the warm service and modern décor. The restaurant may not have had much press, but it has its followers – when we visited on a Tuesday evening, the place was packed and we were happy to have booked.

    We sat at a tall white countertop and perused the menu. Hungry Donkey takes its sourcing seriously, from the biodynamic olives to the ethical meat.

    Transparency about sourcing is something sorely lacking in the lamb wrap world, and I am often torn between wanting to stick to well-sourced food and the fact that this would mean forgoing some of the best dishes in the borough.

    As the meat platters take 40 minutes to prepare, we had some small plates and Greek wine while we waited.

    The dip mix had a delicious bright green sauce that I incorrectly identified as broad bean – it was aubergine. The pan fried graviera cheese was a salty but less chewy alternative to halloumi, but the gigantes, white runner beans in tomato sauce, were no more than the sum of their (two) parts.

    When the meat plate finally came out it conclusively explained Hungry Donkey’s popularity: large chunks of spit-roast, tender lamb, with a fresh multifaceted taste. For pudding we had what our server explained was a more authentic cheesecake, made with manouri.

    It was definitely cheesier and saltier than cream cheese. My dining companion liked it more than I did, but it was well prepared, and I wish that more restaurants would stick to their guns with dishes that find a mixed audience.

    Given there isn’t a wealth of Greek restaurants locally and I don’t always fancy a trek up to Wood Green, Hungry Donkey is a welcome addition to the area, especially in Whitechapel, which has some highlights but is not ready to beat Hackney Central at the restaurant game.

    Hungry Donkey
    56 Wentworth St, London E1 7AL
    hungrydonkey.co.uk

  • Bow Open Show – art review: ‘Exploring East London’s vast cultural history and identity’

    Bow Open Show – art review: ‘Exploring East London’s vast cultural history and identity’

    Photograph by Felicity McCabe of 11-year-old Ilhan Abdillahi Geel near Gargarra, Somaliland
    Photograph by Felicity McCabe of 11-year-old Ilhan Abdillahi Geel near Gargarra, Somaliland

    As a new summer of art gets underway, the Nunnery Gallery have brought back their annual show The Bow Open, featuring work from 24 innovative artists all belonging to the Bow Arts collective.

    This year’s eclectic offerings are curated by Anj Smith, an artist whose captivating – and often unnerving – detailed paintings weave the mystical with the everyday.

    The decisively topical exhibition plays with a wide range of mediums discussing issues of family, nationalism and gender to inventively explore East London’s vast cultural history and identity.

    Ladies and Gentlemen by Ryan Hodge
    Ladies and Gentlemen by Ryan Hodge

    No piece of work is entirely alike. An embroidered stretch of dazzling, chaotic silk and beads from Lizzie Cannon draws you in, while a metre away, Emily Whitebread’s audio What Is England chips away at the concept of patriotism with a series of disconnected but poignant spoken words connoting England.

    Looking further from home, Felicity McCabe’s photography, captures the dramatic and troubling effects of climate change in Somaliland, juxtaposing the image of a woman in bright clothing, blowing in the wind with a crooked, dead tree.

    Triptych by Michael Achtman
    Triptych by Michael Achtman

    Another fascinating journey is encapsulated in Michael Achtman’s triptych image as an accompaniment to his film April In The Country, following a blind woman’s trip to the Western Isles in search of her mother.

    Themes of gender and sexuality also take prominence in the exhibition. Ryan Hodge’s digital print Ladies and Gentlemen, offers a snapshot into transgender life struck through with lashings of shocking pink and Jaime Valtierra’s rich oil painting Not Always but Anytime peeks into the intricacies of female desire.

    There’s also recent St Martin’s graduate Mette Sterr, who says she’s interested in “blurring the boundaries between the animate and the inanimate”. This is certainly seen in her gothic photography, which on this occasion features an ageing mermaid staring gloomily through heavily made up eyes into the camera lens, with her man-made, costume tail trailing into the distance.

    Deeply personal and subtly provocative, the discursive pieces on show reveal not only the breadth of artistic talent available within one small space, but the shifting, eccentric character of the area itself. Expect more fruitful discussion and surprises with live performances, talks, and tempting gin cocktails set up for later this August.

    2016 Bow Open Show, Nunnery Gallery, 181 Bow Road, E3 2SJ
    bowarts.org

    sssshhttt by Mette Sterre
    Sssshhttt by Mette Sterre
    Fictional Memory by Lauren Mele
    Fictional Memory by Lauren Mele
  • Surround sounds: ‘pit parties’ are taking the gig to the crowd

    Surround sounds: ‘pit parties’ are taking the gig to the crowd

    The Black Lips at a Fluffer Records pit part. Photograph: Carla Salvatore
    Cult following: The Black Lips at a Fluffer Records pit party. Photograph: Carla Salvatore

    Fluffer Records started out as a pub conversation but is slowly developing a bit of a cult following in East London.

    This independent label promotes local rock and roll, and helped the likes of Virgin Kids get signed with US label Burger Records.

    But for those in the know, Fluffer is the architect of the chaotic ‘pit parties’ held in secret locations, where bands play in the centre of the room with the crowd surrounding them 360 degrees.

    In May, Hackney Wick venue Shapes hosted the biggest pit party to date. Ten bands played a one-day festival, with The Black Lips jetting in from Atlanta to headline.

    With the stage in the centre, the PA system consisted of four speakers running around its perimeter. Support came from East London-based Japanese expats Bo Ningen, a beguilingly facetious Spanish group The Parrots, and Heck, a stage-diving, thrash-metal four-piece from Nottingham.

    The drinks were expensive, the music was loud and cathartic. And the audience got into the mood with moshing, punching inflatable fruit, attempted stage invasions and giant panda costumes.

    The Black Lips have a reputation for energetic and raucous shows, with stage invasions and drunken nudity not uncommon. Pulling off a gig like this required diplomacy, as both band and venue were concerned things could get out of hand. But on this occasion their set was a relatively civil, albeit sweaty, affair.

    Heck at Shapes. Photograph: Carla Salvatore
    Dancing to Heck at Shapes. Photograph: Carla Salvatore

    Last month I spoke to label boss Al Brown after Fluffer’s DJ set at Field Day. I was curious to find out if the carnivalesque atmosphere of their pit parties was intentional.

    “The fans are part of the performance,” he confirmed. “Because, let’s face it, the more energy you get off the fans and the more people watching, the better the bands tend to play. It’s all part of the same puzzle and both feed off each other.”

    New River Studios, in Manor House, held the most recent Fluffer pit party of the summer, on 18 June.

    With Chichester’s Traams headlining the bill, it was a more modest affair, though equally as rewarding. You could stand behind the drummer and watch the sweat roll off his back as he kept time to energetic garage rock.

    As the sun began to set in Victoria Park and PJ Harvey took to the stage, Al Brown would not be drawn into revealing details of future parties, though it seems likely that something will be offing soon.

    “If people carry on coming, then we’ll keep putting [the parties] on,” he confirmed. Perhaps by next year, Fluffer will have a Field Day stage of its own.

    pitparties.com